Bolivia
Day 1:
SANTA CRUZ - COTOCA:
Getting to Bolivia was mass chaos but once we got here, things couldn’t be better.
Friday morning we woke up at 3:30 to be at the airport by 5. Upon getting there we found out that our first flight would be delayed due to mechanical issues. This delay would cause us to miss the rest of our flights. To try to figure things out, our group of eleven was placed onto many different flights. Some were going through Chicago, some through Miami, and some through Houston. The connecting flights would then go to Panama or straight to Bolivia. Fresh out of luck, I hadn’t been put on any correct flight. My united app had me on flights, but they were all contradicting. After talking to United employees for hours they finally got me on the flight to Houston but said I would be on standby to Panama and to Bolivia. When in Houston, stand by payed out and I ended up on the flight, but Panama is where things would become fuzzy again. In Panama, employees were nowhere to be found and there was only an hour to try to get on the flight. After running back and forth through the airport, I finally found someone to help and miraculously I had been put on the flight. However, two of the other girls were not so lucky. The problem was that United told us that Copa Airlines had to solve the issue, but Copa told us that only united could fix it. As a major turn of events, we get onto the flight to Bolivia and our group had been bumped up to first class! This was such a pleasant surprise and unexpected due to our turmoil throughout the day. Let’s just say, once again, United did us dirty.
Upon getting to Santa Cruz at 5 in the morning, we went straight to our hotel room to sleep a little but before we had to get up and continue with our plan for the trip.
After sleeping in, we made our way to Cotoca, a smaller town outside of Santa Cruz. It was very old school and was centered around a church. There were street venders lining the streets and fresh food everywhere. We walked into a market and were sat down at a small table where a Bolivian woman made us majadido right in front of us. I would describe it as the latin version of fried rice. It was somewhat soupy rice with chicken and a fried egg on top. We left there and walked around the venders we tried some sweets, as well as, chicha, a drink made from corn and sugar.
While walking around, we saw four sloths up in the trees. The park and the weather were beautiful. We then went into the church called Iglesia Purisma Concepcion De La Virgen De Cotoca. It was white and yellow and had wood ceilings. There was a room outside the cathedral where people bring candles and light them, if their candle stays lit, then the virgin has blessed them and their wish will come true.
At the church we met a sweet old man named Enrique. He asked to take his picture and told us that Bolivia is full of delinquency and it makes him so happy that Americans still want to come visit.
We then made out way back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. We went to a brewery called Madera Cervercera. It was run by a graduate of the University of Arkansas and he was hosting an Arkansas party. Many graduates and future students were there. We tried some beer and some tequenos. We also got a tour of the brewery.
We finally made our way back to hotel and passed out from the exhaustion of our travels.
Day 2:
SANTA CRUZ - ABASTO MARKET:
To start our second day in Santa Cruz, we went to the Abasto Market, which was basically a giant farmer’s market. It was divided into many large sections, but specifically sold fruits, vegetables, sweets, bread, cheese, and juice. We walked around the market and interviewed people and tasting all the different food.
In the cab ride, we stopped to buy some sugar cane from the side of the road. We were all unsure on how to eat it and couldn’t even bite into it. We tried many different fruits and sweets and even juice from dragon fruit. The juice was very refreshing and I really liked it.
We then made our way to the main square of Santa Cruz, and ate lunch at an açaí bowl place. My bowl was a lot like mamaka in Fayetteville but was thicker and they gave me a sweet sauce to put on top.
That afternoon, we went to the special needs school to drop off toys and books. They gave us a tour of their facility and told us about their process. We had cake together and visited. Apparently cake is incredibly popular here.
For dinner we went back to the main square to an Irish pub. I had chicken nuggets and a margarita.
Santa Cruz is the more cosmopolitan side of Bolivia. The big city is one of the fastest growing cities in the world. It is the most populated city in Bolivia and is their business center. I really enjoyed Santa Cruz, but in comparison to the other cities, it is much dirtier and busier. It seems less of a tourist spot than the others.
Day 3:
SUCRE :
Sucre is the capital of Bolivia and stands at 9,000 feet. It is distinct of its white colonial buildings with red tile roofs. Sucre seems much smaller than the other Bolivian cities and the market, where we spent most of our time, is well worth the visit.
The day started with another early flight from Santa Cruz to Sucre. Of course, our flight was delayed, but luckily not for long. Going through the Bolivian airports was the easiest travel experience I have ever had; We hardly had any security and our bags were right outside the flight when we landed. We were in and out so quickly.
After landing in Sucre, we made our way to our hotel, Real Audiencia. It was so beautiful. Even surreal. The decoration was very European. The interior was very formal and old school, kind of what you would imagine an embassy looking like. The exterior was white with tile rooves. Every building was stunning. It seemed as if we had ventured into Italy.
For lunch we went to the Market. I had chorizo, rice, and potatoes. After we walked around the market. People sold flowers, chocolates, eggs, baked good, raw meat, cakes, clothes, and many more. I loved seeing the street with the florist. It was beyond epic because I love flowers so much. I talked to the owner of one of the florist shops and she told me how much she loves it and how floral arrangement is like therapy. I completely agree.
We walked all around the city. It was so clean and white. I bought some chocolates because Sucre is known for their Bolivian chocolate.
For sunset, we made our way to a lookout at the top of the city. At the top there was a monastery and a viewing area. When we got there, the light was absolutely stunning. The architecture beautifully accented the view. It was breath-taking. We stayed up there for a while, watching the sun go down and talking to people.
On our way back, we walked through an area of tourist stores. There was a hippie lady selling stones and jewelry. I bought a necklace from her made from sodalita found in Cochabamba. I also bought some handmade scrunchies at a different store.
Dinner was on the top floor of the hotel. There was a glass roof and you could see most of the city. We had one long dinner table. Afterwards, we went in town for a disco. The bar we went to had disco balls hanging from the ceiling and they played American music just for us. We had such a great time.
Day 4:
POTOSÍ:
I really did not want to leave Sucre. It was so beautiful and serene. I wish we had stayed longer than a day. We got breakfast in the hotel. There was a small buffet and the tables overlooked a large window. It was so enjoyed to just sit and drink a coffee.
We got on a bus and headed towards Potosí, which is one of the highest altitude cities in the world. About half way there, we stopped to look at a river basin with a swing bridge. We took a lot of pics and then got back on the bus. A few minutes later, we came to another stop, except this one was unplanned. Our bus would not start back up. We figured it was over heated from going uphill, but it still wouldn’t start after waiting for a while. During the wait, we all took pics in the middle of the road and made jokes about hitch hiking the rest of the way. About thirty minutes later, another bus pulled up and we all hopped on, leaving our bus in the dust.
Upon arriving in Potosí, we ate lunch at the hotel. We all tried coca tea, which is apparently highly illegal in the US, so no bringing that back. It didn’t really have a taste; It was kind of fresh but mostly just tasted like hot water with leaves in it.
Day 5:
POTOSÍ:
For our second day in Potosí, we explored what Potosí is known for: the mines.
We got up early and got on a bus that took us to the area of Potosí where mining families live. Our guide told us about their living conditions and what it was like to work in the mines. The young men that work there usually do out of familial obligation. Their life expectancy is very low and conditions are very harsh, especially on the lungs. They often cope with chewing coca leaves and sipping on 98% alcohol.
To prep, they took us to change into mining clothes. We wore jumpsuits, rain boots, and helmets with flashlights. We looked like the real deal. The guide showed us where you can buy dynamite and how it is solely legal in that area. Then, to the mines.
At the top of the mountain, we walked through an area where miners met and had some living areas. The air was heavy, and our altitude had drastically increased from the already high one we had yet to adjust to. They gave everyone coca to chew on with the belief that it helps with the altitude. Then we entered.
The mine was small and dusty. Navigating was quite difficult for a tall person like me. There were parts where I could stand straight up, had to crouch, and had to climb on my stomach. As we made our way through, the guide told us all about the history of the mine and the folklore that went along with it. At one point, we stopped to look at a devil sculpture that people made offerings to. I personally did not like this and it made me quite uncomfortable.
The mountain itself was a dormant volcano and was mined for silver and fools gold. We got to a point where we could watch actual miners to their job. I grabbed two pieces of fools gold and then we headed back.
Day 6:
POTOSI TO UYUNI:
This day was quite the test of our patience. We were supposed to leave Potosi for Uyuni at 10:30 but there were local protests in Uyuni about construction of sulfur plants on the flats. They told us that the streets in Uyuni were closed and there was only one-way in so, we didn’t end up leaving until 4. Until then, we walked around Potosi and ate some pizza.
When we finally got onto our bus, it was too large to make it through the narrow streets. We nearly hit so many things. The drive itself was not bad; While there was still light, the views were beautiful.
With about an hour left, nearly the entire bus was asleep, but Laura and I were wide awake in the back. The last thing we could have ever imagined happened next. Out the front windshield of our bus we saw an innocent llama… there wasn’t enough time to move and it just stood there like a deer in the headlights. Traumatizing.
When we got to Uyuni there was hardly any wait to get into the town. I think everything had passed over. Our hotel was not in the town but on the flats, so we still had a bit of driving. We drove to the wrong hotel, so it ended up taking us about another hour to find the right one.
Our hotel, Luna Salada, Was right on the salt flats with nothing else in view. It was entirely made of salt including the furniture. It was beautiful. Unfortunately, since we took so long getting to Uyuni, we did not get to spend much time here.
Upon arrival, we went straight to dinner. There was a wonderful buffet out for us. It was the best dinner we had yet. We even had tiramisu and chocolate mousse. After dinner, they gave us drink vouchers and we hit the bar. We all got our complementary drinks and sat in front of the fire.
Day 7:
UYUNI:
I woke up early this morning to make the most of our time. I knew this was our nicest stop but I had no idea how drastically things were going to change.
Our morning at Luna Salada was wonderful. I was up before mostly everyone else, so I walked around and took it all in. I fixed myself some coffee and took pics of everything. They had little nooks that had either hammocks, fireplaces, or seating areas. I facetimed my parents and then met back up Laura and headed to breakfast.
For breakfast, we had a full buffet. There were so many options. I got two plates full (obviously because breakfast is the best meal of the day). We joined the rest of the group at a dining table made of salt.
When we finished, we explored some more. We found our way outside, which was much colder than I had anticipated. The view was incredible. It was just salt, for miles. We had to be back on the road at 10, so we enjoyed the hotel with the little time we had.
We then got picked up by four land crusiers that were going to be our guides for the next three days. They were going to take us all around uyuni and the salt flats.
We started in a little town, Colchani, to buy souvenirs and see the process of salt refining. Next, we entered the flats and drove to a salt monument, Dakar in the eyes of salar. Here we took some pics and they had an area of flags. This was a really quick stop.
Next, we drove to Isla Incahuasi. I loved this stop. It is an “island” in the middle of the flats that is just covered with cacti. It was incredible. Here we stopped for lunch and our drivers cooked for us. We sat at little salt tables and enjoyed our meal. We then went on a hike around the island. We saw a vizcacha, an animal that looks like a rabbit mixed with a chinchilla. At the top of the island, you have a 360 view of the flats. It is incredible. I had never seen anything remotely like it. The vast landscape was endless. It was as if we were surrounded by a white ocean.
Our next stop was an area of the salt flats were every direction looked endless. We stopped here to get the cliché pictures were something looks big and the other looks small. We stayed here for a while and watched the sunset.
We then got back into the cars and drove a long time to our first hostel. We had no idea what to expect but it was a huge step down from our last place. We had three in each room where we had no wifi and no heat. We all got a lot closer this night.
Day 8:
UYUNI:
Laura ended up sleeping in my bed during our night at the hostel. Being freezing and unsure if our door actually locked, no one wanted to be by themselves. We slept horribly and the breakfast was not so good.
We got back into the land cruisers and headed on our way. During out extensive drive, I got a text telling me that my Chile phone plan was now starting… so I guess we had driven into Chile.
Our first stop was Ollaque volcano. We just went to a spot at the base of it to view it. It didn’t seem like a volcano but more like mars. They were playing EDM music, so we danced a bit and then back into the cars.
Next was Laguna Cañapa. Here was a brown and yellow lagoon with a few flamingoes. Its coloration made me think of what Iceland would be like. Very dark and moody. Since we were still high in altitude, this location was very cold.
Then to lagoon #2, laguna Hedionda, also known as the stinky lagoon because of the sulfur. We stayed here for a while and ate lunch in a small restaurant that overlooked the lagoon. There were a lot more flamingoes at this lagoon than the last one.
For lunch we had chicken and rice and at this point they started to give us wine at every meal. I think they were trying to compensate for the bad conditions.
After lunch, it was back on the road. After driving for a bit, it started to blizzard. I had no idea that we were going to see snow nor was I prepared at all. It was the first snow of the season. Our elevation the entire time in the Andes, was higher than all the peaks in Colorado. We stopped to go to the bathroom during the blizzard, but it was so cold that I couldn’t go.
Our next stop was Arbol de Piedra (stone tree) in the siloli desert. This was supposed to be a well-known spot, but it was snowing so much that hardly anyone got out of the cars.
Our last stop was laguna colorada, the colored lagoon. It was stunning. I was disappointed because they wouldn’t let me fly my drone since it was a national park. The sunset was gorgeous. The colors were milky and muted pinks. Truly one of the most amazing places I’ve seen.
On our way to the hostel, I made our driver, Samuel, stop so I could chase some vicuna into the sunset. It was a magical moment. We got back into the car and headed to our even sketchier hostel.
At the hostel, we had eight girls in one room and not nearly enough beds. There was no heat, no wifi, no service, no showers, and only had electricity for two hours. I tried to stay positive and enjoy the adventure, but this was not something we were prepared for.
Day 9:
UYUNI:
We woke up before the sunrise and were all still freezing. All eight of us struggled to get up. We had no mirrors or showers, so we bundled up and headed to breakfast.
They had coffee and pancakes. While the coffee was great and well needed, I wasn’t the biggest fan of the pancakes. In Bolivia, I never found creamer for my coffee, instead people put chocolate powder.
After we ate, it was back on the road. We drove through a lot of snow and made our way to our first stop of the day, Geyser Sol de La Manana. Here it was absolutely freezing, I could hardly hold my camera. But the view made up for the conditions. It was unlike anything I had ever seen before. The geyser was a beam of smoke that was surrounded by what looked like mars. There was large holes in the ground full of murky water.
Stop number two was the hot springs, Aguas termales de polques. Only three of us got in and it felt great. It was well needed after freezing most of the day. It overlooked a large lagoon. Once again, I tried to fly my drone but it was prohibited. After our quick break, it was back on the road again.
Next, we stopped in some random small town for lunch. Our drivers prepared us avocado and pasta. This day was father’s day but none of us had service so we all desperately got onto a Bolivian’s hot spot and texted our dads.
After lunch, we made our way to Valle de Rocas, valley of rocks, which is also called italia Perdida due to its resemblance to Italian streets. We walked around here for a while and climbed on rocks and then headed on our way.
On our way to the next place, we saw a bunch of llamas and alpacas, so of course we made the drivers stop so we could take pics.
To finish our trip in Uyuni, we had dinner at a cute coffee shop called the guardian. This night we were finally back to a hotel instead of a hostel.
After dinner, our translators and drivers took us out to the disco. It was so fun but I don’t think the locals liked having so many Americans in their bar. We finished our night with some good ole karaoke.
Day 11-14:
Buena Vista:
The rest of our trip was spent in Buena Vista, a small town outside Santa Cruz in the rainforest. Here we were to finish our work from the trip and relax. We stayed in a little resort that we had to ourselves. It overlooked the rainforest and a coffee farm. While here, we occasionally went into town to work some more and eat. It was a pleasant way to end our trip.
More photos:
